I spent hours in a number of the ateliers on Avenue de Montaigne today, as well as George V and rue François, taking notes and seeing what the great designers are doing. There is much here right now that isn’t that visible in the US yet.
In fashion, as in all things, I remain a child before the prospect of color. Nothing could amuse me more in music, fashion, cinema, people, dance. I do my best to hold onto this childish way.
Of course these things lead me back to the organ sooner or later. I think those who resist change/experimentation/questioning of tradition in what “organ” and “playing the organ” can mean are analogous to the naysayers of fashion. Every so often a pundit shows up with something like the following: fashion is shallow, because it is concerned with surface-level (image) issues, and (especially) because it changes every season. Both naysayers have in common a latent obsession: DEATH. By objecting to the outpouring of creative action and continual (seasonal) renewal, they are demonstrating that they prefer the static, the motionless, the changeless. Death is the ultimate manifestation of stasis, motionlessness, changelessness.
Anyway, a series of shoes & buttons at Chanel is a blast (note the rhinestones).





Pucci is reliable (though never predictable) for outpourings of patterned joys. Like Etro, the sheer volume of data basically precludes the possibility of clashing, because it would just get lost in the noise.


Finally I ended up at Courrèges.

For those not familiar with Andre Courrèges, his name is synonymous in France with forwardness and inventiveness in style, but also with a sort of mythic vision - probably because unlike Balenciaga and Dior, and even Chanel, who were tied in one way or another to the continuance of style traditions formed in the 19th century, he seemingly sprang into the 20th century fully-formed.
Among other things, Courrèges invented the miniskirt; the thigh-high boot; and the idea of “space-age” in clothing, particularly in the use of plastics and alternative materials, so you can imagine how influential he’s been. Without Courrèges neither the 1960’s nor the 1980’s would have looked like they did, and our understanding of “mod” - if any - would not be the beautifully consistent zaniness that it is (as in this all-Courrèges photo from the mid-1960’s):

The Courrèges boutique is a strange, but refreshing place to go, because it is a highly rarified environment; one is immediately aware of stepping into a design-world which eliminates the mundane (indeed often by elevating it to a rare level, as with functional items like umbrellas and raincoats, etc.).

I adore settings like this for the same reason that I adore very far-out modern art: even when it seems to make no sense, and even when it may seem obvious, pointless, unintelligible or even offensive, I can’t get away from the fact that it has been made, and as a creator there are few things as empowering as reminded that the possibility to MAKE is unlimited, even by the objections of others.
Courrèges’ boutique is an example of this, particularly because one instantly understands that this is not a place that needs to sell anything to stay open. It’s certainly a store, but it feels more like a museum, which is also cool in a sense similar to the above idea of possibility: isn’t it fantastic that Courrèges, as a creator, has risen to the level where it is not compulsory that he sell, only that he make his work available, so he’s able to do so exactly according to his vision. I’m assuming that this is the case, but I’m pretty sure it is; my sad little photos can hardly show it, but this is a consummately unified environment.
It’s badly tasteless to take photographs inside high street shops, but in this case I risked it and did. I think it captures a bit of the absurdity of the place; boots, dog collars, Lucite jewelry, see-through rain coats, fluorescent colors. I’m not interested in any one of the items and wasn’t turned on by any of the actual design. But the sum total, again the fact that such a freak place exists, is a major charge.



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